Sept. 2 Omaha Beach and American Cemetery at Normandy

OMAHA BEACH

After leaving Pont du Hoc we traveled a few miles to Omaha Beach. Our guide, Stephan, said he found it was interesting that the planners of the invasion decided to name Omaha Beach, which is rugged, after an area in the U.S. he thinks of as flat and that Utah Beach is named after an area in the States that is more rugged terrain but the actual beach area is flat. I had never thought of it that way. I wonder if the powers that were in 1944 had a reason. Did they see the dichotomy?

Omaha beach was the direct opposite of Utah beach. The beach was not that wide, there was more greenery and houses were built into the cliffs. The landing was more difficult. There were more German defenders and we paid a very high price for that patch of land - 2,374 of our bravest and mostly young men died that day.

Sign at entrance to Omaha Beach

A view at the cliffs at Omaha Beach

Their landing craft first hit sandbars and they were under heavy fire. Some of the landing craft dropped the door only to find on the other side of the bar they were in very deep water. Many soldiers drowned.

You can see the remnants of a gun bunker high on the hill and imagine the bullets raining down on soldiers struggling in the surf.

Gun bunker high on the hillside

Omaha Beach did not have the visual effect of Pont du Hoc. No craters, no gun turrets. You were left to your imagination of what happened using old films like "The Longest Day" as your point of reference. I could only imagine the fear our young men faced. So many of them met their Maker on June 6, 1944. The U.S. 1st Division took the high ground on which the cemetery stands. They suffered tremendous losses, but secured the area before the day ended!

AMERICAN CEMETERY

As I walked down the long pathway toward the cemetery, I remembered the scene in "Saving Pvt. Ryan" when the older Ryan is walking down towards the graves. How many wives, sons and daughters have walked that same path to visit the remains of a loved one? I personally did not know anyone who died on D-Day.  But I wanted to make this trip in honor of my father who was a true patriot.  He enlisted in WWII at the age of 41, leaving Mother at home with 9 children.  The sadness can overwhelm you.

I was struck by the physical beauty of the area. It is so well maintained. Even the trees were pruned to look like (to me) sentries standing their duty. Not like Gettysburg where old trees are called "witness trees". But rather new, young, standing tall in honor of those buried here. In one area I captured the U.S. flag flying proudly.

View from the entrance

The first thing you come to is the main monument entitled: "The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves". It is a semicircle of columns with a statue in the middle. The inner walls are lined with details of the landing.

Carlos in front of the bronze statue

"The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves" 

One of the inscriptions on the statue:  IN PROUD REMEMBRANCE OF THE ACHIEVEMENTS OF HER SONS AND IN HUMBLE TRIBUTE TO THEIR SACRIFICES THIS MEMORIAL HAS BEEN ERECTED BY THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

We left the monument area to proceed down to the English Channel and to the gravesites. Here we encountered a map of the area depicting the battle areas. It overlooked the channel.

Looking out to sea from cemetery

D-Day Invasion Map

We finally arrived at the gravesites. Carlos and I started to walk the many paths to the different sections. The sadness was palpable. So many of our brave soldiers gave the ultimate sacrifice in the name of freedom. I recalled to mind something John Finn had said to our son Chuck. John, up until this summer, was the oldest living Medal of Honor winner from Pearl Harbor. He put it so simply when questioned why he did what he did on Dec. 7, 1941. "I was just a soldier doing my job". How many of the 9,387 buried here felt that
same emotion as John Finn?

The simple white stones are lined up in military precision. So many of them. They are enscribed with name, home state, rank, division, and date of death. There are even unknown soldiers buried here.

One of many Unknown Soldier crosses

Teddy Roosevelt Jr. is buried here as well as 2 of the Niland brothers from Saving Private Ryan movie.

General who landed with his troops at Utah Beach

First of 3 Niland brothers killed on D-Day

Second Niland brother whose story inspired the movie "Saving Pvt. Ryan"

We walked for about 30 minutes up and down the rows. There are flowers planted everywhere. I saw mostly roses and heather. So pretty.

peaceful setting under a tree

one of many heather beds

Carlos overlooking graves with English Channel in background

A peaceful setting

Our final stop was the chapel. It was small but said so much. The dome is a mosaic.  It symbolizes America blessing sons as they depart by sea and air to fight for freedom, and a grateful France bestowing a laurel wreath upon American Dead who gave their lives to liberate Europe's oppressed peoples. The return of peace is recalled by the angel, dove and the homeward bound ship.

Dome of the Chapel

Simple yet beautiful

On our walk back to the coach, Carlos spent a few seconds at each grave along the way, saying out loud the name on the tombstone and the state from which he hailed. He said he was struck with the thought that some of those names may not have been said out loud since the day they were buried here, some 66 years ago.

We left The Cemetery for our long drive back to the ship. All of us were left with our personal thoughts about D-Day. I think what Lincoln said at Gettysburg could be superimposed on any wall here at Normandy.
".... we can not dedicate, we can not consecrate, we can not hallow this ground. The brave men....who struggled here, have consecrated it,..... but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us....for which they gave the last full measure of devotion...that these dead shall not have died in vain...."

Another item checked off my bucket list. But I promise myself I will return one day. To each of my children, please make sure you too visit Normandy. Encourage your children to do the same, ......lest we forget.


Footnote to tour - NOT ENOUGH TIME. One could easily spend the whole day here in the cemetery.

Sept. 2 Normandy - Part One

Our final tour day, and the whole purpose of this cruise, was our long-awaited visit to the Normandy beaches.  For purposes of clarity, I will break each visit down as best I can. Because of time constraints (that is becoming an on-going theme) we could not visit each landing beach. We did have Utah and Omaha beaches on the itinerary because of the significance of each to the success of the invasion.

We arrived early in port. I was on another cruise critic tour - this one with Overlord tours. We were to be in a bus for 8 and 2 buses were scheduled to be in caravan. However, at the last min. Overlord decided to combine the groups and we were in 1 bus. Overlord was highly recommended on Cruise Critic.

Our guide was Stehpan and he has been a guide in Normandy for over 8 years. He was extremely knowledgeable. He is an ex marine in the French military.  He planned for us to drive to the furthest beach which was Utah beach. He said it was a 2.5 hour drive. I had NO idea the beaches were that far from the Le Harve port where the Princess was docked. Time for a short nap while refineries and industrial areas passed us by.

Just before our arrival at Utah Beach, we passed a spillway. In 1944, the Germans used this to flood the area for protection against a possible invasion. Soldiers would have to march for miles in knee deep water.

The spillway that the Germans used to flood the lowlands.

UTAH BEACH

When we arrived at Utah Beach I was struck with the peacefulness of the area. Not true so many years ago. The beach is wide and flat. The tide was out. The sun was shining and the sky so blue - this too was the same as June 6, 1944.

Utah Beach at low tide

Utah Beach was chosen in order to secure the Cherbourg port which has a large natural harbor. The allied Armies would need this harbor for bringing in supplies for the march to Germany. The fight at Omaha Beach was met with little resitance from the German army. The allied forces suffered only 250 deaths.

Bunker on top right of photo - Utah Beach

U.S. and French flags flying over Utah Beach

Carlos at monument to U.S. Navy at Utah Beach

Teddy Roosevelt, Jr.

At 44 years of age, he was the only general to land with his troops at Utah Beach. He was first off his landing craft and found they were 1 mile up the coast. He personally did a reconnaissance of the area and determined they would start the invasion "from here". He is a medal of honor winner and died of a heart attack in July 1944. He is buried in the cemetery of Collesville.

STE MARE EGLISE

Our paratroopers were being dropped all over the area in a surprise attack against the Germans. However, winds wrecked havoc on them and so many were lost. Some landed behind enemy lines. Others died landing in water. One landed on the steeple of the church of Ste Mare Eglise. This is commemorated at the church with a parachute and mannequin hanging from the steeple. Private John Steele's chute caught on the steeple. He was knocked unconscience for about 2 hours. There were 2 German soldiers stationed on the balcony of the church just above Steele. When Steele regained consciencenous, he was shot at by the Germans. But the older of the two decided not to keep up the shooting for fear it would give away their position to the advancing Americans. John was eventually captured and suffered several broken bones. He escaped captivity and returned to fight another day. He died in 1969.

Steeple of the Church of Ste Mare Iglise

Note balcony where chute is secured.  This is location of two German's that were shooting at Steele

rung in fence where bullet pierced steel

PONTE DU HOC



This is a very moving and visual battlefield. The mission was to take out the large 155 mm guns. They were perched atop a 100 ft cliff. Bombing by the U.S. Air Force began the day before in order to soften up the German defenders. Also the battleship TEXAS was offshore providing support to the 225 U.S. Rangers who were picked for the mission commanded by James Rudder. When an intelligence officer was asked if the Rangers could climb the cliff, he stated that 3 old women with brooms could knock them off. But Rudder told Gen Bradley that his rangers could handle the mission. And handle it they did, but after suffering terrible casualties. Of the 225 only about 90 survived the 2-day battle.

first sight of bombed out cliff area defended by the Germans

our guide giving us visual as to width and depth bomb cratrer

cliffs that Rangers scaled

another view of the cliffs

bunker and foundation for the big 155 mm gun

Carlos looking out to sea

another view of the rugged terrain captured by the Rangers

bunker overlookibng the sea - what a vantage point the Germans had from here

To be continued with Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery

Aug. 31 - Edinburgh, again

Before I get going - the port is pronounced Edin-bur-ah.  The last sylabble is strong and gutteral.
After a very late night at the Chef's table, it was hard getting up today for this tour. But this was a day I was excited about. Our primary goal, Stirling Castle.
Today was going to be a very full tour day - timed to the minute for arrivals and departures from the various stops. We would be in Braveheart country - home of William Wallace who fought the battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297 (played by Mel Gibson in the movie Braveheart).

Also around the area of Stirling Castle, we visited Bannockburn where another battle fought in 1314) the Scots waged, and won, the 2nd war of independence againsty the British.

But let me go back to the beginning of the day. We anchored off So. Queensferry and had to tender to land. We went under the famous "Firth of Forth" train bridge. While it is under maintenance, it is still a beautiful bridge dating back to 1890. The bridge, even today, is considered an engineering marvel and is being considered for UNESCO's World Heritage Sites.

On shore, we met our guide, Fraser. A very well know Scottish guide that Joyce, my cruise critic friend, has used many times. Fraser met us on the dock, wearing his Gordon clan tartan. very sharp looking. He outlined our day and said we had to be punctual since, as I mentioned above, we had a lot of places to go and people to see!!

A quick drive through the town and we passed The Black Castle dating back to 1626. (actually, this is young compared to so many other antiquities we have seen!!)

Our first stop was the town of Culross. Fraser planned a walking tour here. We had a long climb up a hill to Culross Abbey. But well worth the climb.

this house is called the House of the Evil Eyes!!!

the unicorn is seen on a lot of monuments

Vicky and Herb on a quiet street

Carlos on climb up hill with water in the background

two brothers running happily DOWN hill to school

Back in the coach and off to Bannockburn wherre Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, fought a battle for indenpendce in 1314.

Now on to Stirling Castle, a short distance from Bannockburn. Stirling is compared to Edinburgh Castle because they both are very stategically located on high volcanic rock, giving them a strong defensive position and nearly impenetrable. Some of the structures date back to the 1300's but most are from 18th century. In touring the castle, you can see walls that change in texture and color indicating reinforced areas. Stirling was the Royal Palace built by King James V for his bride, Mary of Guise, for their daughter, Mary Queen of Scots.

Before entering the castle via the drawbridge, we stopped to look at the monument to Wallace in the distance. We knew we would not be able to see this up close because of time restrictions and the fact it is a very hard climb. Guess I have to go back!!!

walking the drawbrige to castle

note change in building materials

note palm tree - there is a little garden right there in a circular tower. At one time, this was a tall tower.

see bullet holes in tower wall

A much needed rest stop.....

Herb reading, as usual

King Carlos and his Queen in the Main Hall.

We were back on the road again. This time for a stop in the town of Alberfolye for a lunch stop and then on to an area where Hamish lives - a highland cow.

Hamish

We were back in the coach again heading to Loch Lomond and Trussards National Park.  More fields and fields of heather. We had one stop where we could pick heather.  Wish I could have brought some home.

yours truly in a field of heather

Loch Lomond

Our final stop was for what else - shopping in a woolen factory. Yours truly managed to look but not to touch or to buy. Always in the back of my mind - BA only allowed us 51 lbs and we started the trip with way too much to allow for purchases. Was there a method to Carlos' madness in this?????

Great day. Another long tiring one though. So looking forward to our last sea day to catch up before our last port - Normandy.

P.S. Ships computers so painfully slow - no time to get on computers while at sea.